Gardening advice sounds like a foreign language at first: hardiness zones, frost dates, full sun, amending soil. The ideas behind these terms are simple, and understanding them saves you from most beginner mistakes.
This guide explains the basics in plain English: sun, soil, water, zones, frost dates and seasons. If you want a step-by-step plan, see Your First Garden. Part of the Grow Your Own Food series.
Five things decide whether plants thrive: sun, soil, water, timing and variety. For vegetables, your average last frost date matters more than your hardiness zone. Learn both, and ask your county extension office for local advice.
Sun
| Term | Meaning | Good for |
|---|---|---|
| Full sun | 6 to 8 hours or more of direct sun | Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, squash, cucumbers, beans |
| Part sun or part shade | About 3 to 6 hours | Leafy greens, radishes, peas, many herbs |
| Shade | Less than about 3 hours | Few edible crops. Try mint, chives or some greens. |
Watch your yard at different times of day, since sun moves with the seasons and trees leaf out.
Soil
- Texture: sandy soils drain fast, clay soils hold water, and loam is in between.
- Organic matter: compost improves nearly every soil, helping sandy soil hold water and clay soil drain.
- pH: most vegetables prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil. A soil test tells you where yours is.
- Safety: for older homes or urban sites, ask about lead. The EPA recommends avoiding vegetable growing in soil with more than 400 ppm total lead, and using raised beds with clean soil where levels are higher.
Water
Most vegetables need about 1 inch of water a week, from rain or irrigation. Water deeply and check the soil two inches down. For details, see Watering and Mulching Your Vegetable Garden.
Hardiness zones and frost dates
| Concept | What it tells you | Use it for |
|---|---|---|
| USDA Plant Hardiness Zone | Average annual coldest winter temperature, in 10-degree zones and 5-degree half zones. The current map is based on 1991 to 2020 data. | Choosing perennials, such as fruit trees, berries, asparagus and many herbs, that survive your winters. |
| Average last spring frost date | When the risk of frost usually ends in your area. | Timing warm-season vegetables. |
| Average first fall frost date | When frost usually returns. | Timing fall crops and knowing your growing season length. |
Look up your zone with your ZIP code on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. For frost dates, ask your county extension office, since dates vary by location and microclimate. See Vegetable Planting Calendar.
Cool-season and warm-season crops
| Type | Grows best at | Examples |
|---|---|---|
| Cool-season | About 55°F to 75°F. Tolerates light frost. | Lettuce, spinach, peas, radishes, kale, broccoli, carrots |
| Warm-season | Long, hot days, about 65°F to 95°F. Killed by frost. | Tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash, beans, eggplant |
Annuals, perennials and biennials
- Annuals complete their life cycle in a season: tomatoes, lettuce, beans.
- Perennials come back every year: asparagus, rhubarb, many herbs, fruit bushes.
- Biennials grow one year and flower the next: carrots and parsley, if left in the ground.
A short garden glossary
| Term | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Direct sow | Plant seeds straight in the garden. |
| Transplant | A young plant moved into the garden. |
| Hardening off | Gradually getting indoor seedlings used to outdoor conditions. |
| Bolting | A plant going to flower and seed early, often from heat, making leaves bitter. |
| Mulch | A layer of material on the soil surface. |
| Succession planting | Sowing crops every week or two for a continuous harvest. |
| Microclimate | A small spot that is warmer or colder than the surroundings, such as beside a south-facing wall. |
Where to get local advice
- Your county cooperative extension office and Master Gardener program.
- Your state university extension website.
- Local community gardens and garden centers.




